South Through Southern California

Death Valley

Continuing south, my first stop in California was Death Valley. I visited Badwater, 282 feet below sea level, where I was met by crowds of international tourists emerging from their buses. Tourists were filming everything (including the text on the signs) with their camcorders. I paid my $20 park fee at an automated pay station.       36.2285, -116.7692 

One tourist spotted a sickly looking (but alive) Chuckwalla lizard sprawled out on the hot pavement. A park ranger was alerted, and he used a sign to relocate the unfortunate creature to the shade of a nearby sagebrush.

Mojave National Preserve

My next destination was the Mojave National Preserve. After refueling in Baker, CA on Interstate 15, I wasted an hour trying to enter Mojave via Zzyzx Road. (What a name!) But, you can't. Zzyzx is now a California State Universities Desert Studies Area. After a few more mistakes, including encountering the Baker town landfill, I found an unpaved track south from Baker, and camped at the mines just south of Little Cowhole Mountain, on the east side of the dry Soda Lake.       35.1611, -116.0294 

The next morning I drove a few miles west out the only open road crossing Soda Lake to a huge pile of rocks known as Government Cairn.       35.1324, -116.0921 

Wandering east from Soda Lake, exploring the Mojave Desert.... The Cima Dome is a forest of Joshua Trees. Years ago I had marked on my map the infamous Mojave Telephone Booth (now removed), and had to visit the site.       35.2858, -115.6844 

Heading south from Mojave, I crossed the famous former Route 66. The road was crowded with traffic — nostalgic tourists, motorcycles, and pickup trucks pulling recreational boats and ATV trailers. This remote road through the desert was dotted with a few abandoned businesses, like Roys Hotel in Amboy, which withered away after most of the traffic had moved to the parallel Interstate 40.

Joshua Tree National Park

I picked a lesser-used entrance to Joshua Tree National Park, Gold Crown Road, a rugged trail entering from the north. I camped in the Gold Crown Mine area, just north of the Park, and explored the gold mines — many of which were still active.       33.9954, -115.6981  That evening, my camper van was plagued by a swarm of bees which seemed to be attracted to moisture. Except for one bee that got in with me (I noticed when I sat on it), the van's screens did a great job of keeping the bees out. After I finally convinced myself I was safe, I turned up my music to drown out the buzzing sound, and watched the bees investigate my grey water tank vent on the side of the van. (I was pleased that no bees crawled into the van through the drain of the sink.)

Orocopia Mountains

From Joshua Tree to the Salton Sea, I followed a 4WD trail through the Orocopia Mountains along the Red Canyon, and then west along the Bradshaw Trail.       33.5522, -115.6204  Signs warned to not enter the Chocolate Mountain Aerial Gunnery Range to the south. The Bradshaw Trail ended at the Coachella Canal, which was a site of furious construction. As I dodged construction trucks, I watched grading equipment smooth the sides of the canal — chained to a bulldozer so it wouldn't fall in!

Salton Sea

I stopped for a swim in the almost empty Salton Sea State Recreation Area. The salty water is very shallow, and except for some white sand placed along the shore, the lake bottom is mud and very sharp volcanic rocks. (Ouch!)       33.5047, -115.9150 

Anza Borrego State Park

West of the Salton Sea is the Anza Borrego State Park. I explored the Borrego Badlands, and camped at "Inspiration Point".       33.2704, -116.2396  With temperatures over 100 °F, the park was pretty empty in late May, so I had it almost completely to myself. Apparently Anza Borrego is a popular winter destination. I also checked out the views from Montezuma Valley Road, and the vegetation (including desert palm trees) of San Felipe Road. Water barrels were placed along this desert road.