Chichi Market

From Panajachel, we made a day trip to the famously huge market of Chichi (short for Chichicastenango). See in Google Maps See in Google Earth  14.9330, -91.1170 

Getting There

Although there are many tourist shuttles that run between Panajachel and Chichi every morning, Laura insisted on riding an early morning public (chicken) bus to the market town. Here is what we learned about the trip to Chichi: Some buses are direct, and some require a transfer at Los Encuentros. Leaving Panajachel, the buses that stop facing south (down towards the lake) on the main strip will immediately go out of town, whereas the ones facing north (towards the central square) will take a long time going through other parts of town collecting passengers before heading out. Oh, and if you can, try to choose a healthy-looking bus that can readily get up the steep hill out of Panajachel — our run-down bus filled with nasty diesel smoke as it slowly labored up that hill.

We paid Q20 (US$3) to get to Chichi in a bus that was stuffed to the gills with people. We thought we had been on crowded buses before, but this one was simply hilarious!

In Guatemala, the ayudante doesn't gather fares at the door — instead, he has to remember who has paid and who hasn't, and sporadically squeezes down the aisle collecting fares. By the time we passed through Los Encuentros, the bus had 3 to 4 people on each little seat, the aisles were packed with standing riders, and we finally had actual chickens on our chicken bus (transported in wicker baskets). To collect his fares, the ayudante climbed up and over people, putting his feet on the backs of seats, reaching down from near the ceiling of the bus. He finally left the bus through the rear emergency exit to avoid having to force his way back to the front.


When we arrived in Chichi, it was time for breakfast! We ate at Tu Cafe, a little place with outdoor seating opening up into the market. There was plenty of food options in the market, but this cafe let us sit and watch the world go by — and eat an egg breakfast that Chichi's market comedors didn't seem to be serving. Unfortunately, sitting right in the market also puts us on display for people selling trinkets. This was the only time in Guatemala when we were pestered with people persistently trying to sell us their wares — kids and elderly men with masks, toys, musical instruments, and textiles. But these people still weren't really all that pushy, and we didn't mind chatting with the kids a bit.

Chichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Eating Breakfast - Eggs, Sausage, and Blue Corn TortillasChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Eating Breakfast - Man Selling - LauraChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market

We aren't shoppers who are used to the routine of bargaining, and so we were a little intimidated having to do so — but we practiced our skills here in the market, buying some vegetables, rock jewelry, and beautiful textiles.

Chichi (Chichicastenango) - MarketChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Tuk TuksChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Woman with ChickenChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Making Blue Corn TortillasChichi (Chichicastenango) - DentistChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Carrying Heavy Load with Head StrapChichi (Chichicastenango) - Looking South into MarketChichi (Chichicastenango) - Looking NorthChichi (Chichicastenango) - Bus RepairChichi (Chichicastenango) - MarketChichi (Chichicastenango) - MarketChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Selling LimeChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Selling Pots

The market is generally known for its textiles, but the indoor vegetable market was also amazing to watch. The vegetable market is held in an indoor basketball court, with a 2nd floor balcony that is a great vantage point for watching and taking photos. Families come from various surrounding towns, each wearing their own distinctive local huipiles. Identifying the many huipil patterns is a bit like bird watching!

Chichi (Chichicastenango) - Indoor Vegetable MarketChichi (Chichicastenango) - Indoor Vegetable MarketChichi (Chichicastenango) - Indoor Vegetable Market

There are two main churches in town where, again, Christian and traditional Mayan beliefs mix. Outside, ceremoniously dressed figures set off fireworks on the front steps, where candles were lit and offerings were made. Inside are sculptures representing various saints, stained almost black from centuries of candle soot. On the floor are rectangular marble blocks, where one can make offerings next to the symbols of health, travel, marriage, children, etc.

At one point, we were approached by a tour guide wearing a faded official INGUAT (the official Guatemalan tourism bureau) vest who offered us a quick tour and then guilted us into paying her Q60. We felt a bit uneasy about the whole situation.

Chichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Church StepsChichi (Chichicastenango) - ChurchChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - ChurchChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Church StepsChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Church

Beside the traditional wares, we also found these salespeople pitching cure-alls made from snakes, eyeballs, and herbs:

Chichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - SalesmanChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Salesman with Snake and Cow EyeballChichi (Chichicastenango) - Market - Saleswoman Selling Bottled Remedies

We hiked up a little hill to Pascual Abaj, a site where Mayan rituals are performed. This place also offered a great view of Chichi's colorful cemetery.

Chichi (Chichicastenango) - Pascual Abaj - Mayan Ritual Site at the Top of the HillChichi (Chichicastenango) - Pascual Abaj - Site of a Sacrificed ChickenChichi (Chichicastenango) - View of Colorful Cemetery

Bus Ride Home

We spent most of the day exploring Chichi, and then took a bus back to Panajachel via Los Encuentros. We caught our bus from near the arch north of the market. See in Google Maps See in Google Earth  14.9440, -91.1109  Be ready — this isn't the main stop, so buses passing through won't wait long when they stop here! From our earlier experience riding to Panajachel, we learned to always ask the ayudante the cost before getting on any bus. This one costed us Q7 to Los Encuentros, and then another Q5 to Panajachel — for some reason a full Q8 less than what we paid to get to the market that same morning!

Back in Panajachel, we watched as everything you can imagine got unloaded from our chicken bus.

Back at Panajachel - Chicken Bus - Everything Gets Unloaded