Driving to Mulegé
We continued on Highway 1, across the Baja peninsula towards Santa Rosalía on the east coast.
Flying along on smooth pavement, we stopped once at Km E-41
We then drove down what is known as the "Devil's Grade", where the eastern escarpment of the peninsula sharply dives towards the sea. Here, the highway winds back and forth down to Santa Rosalía on the coast as it descends 1100 feet in 7 miles. We spotted a Green Angels truck waiting midway down. The Green Angels are a Mexican AAA equivalent whose fleet of trucks drive up and down Highway 1 helping tourists with their car trouble.
We had heard wonderful things about the formerly French Santa Rosalía: a church there which was designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), a terrific French culture, and an amazing bakery. But it also used to be a mining town and it shows! We found Santa Rosalía to be a hideous town, at least when viewed from the highway. Perhaps we'll give it a chance some other time, but we wanted to get to Bahía Concepción, so we flew on by.
At this point, it started getting dark, and we needed to find a place to
sleep. Laura had read about the deserted beaches of Punta Chivato in the
Moon Handbooks Baja, and also in The Magnificent Peninsula. So we turned off
Highway 1 at Km 156
In the morning, we explored our beach, finding numerous wacky shells. Just past our campsite we found that the road ended at a lagoon, so we had to retrace our steps to Highway 1.
We also checked out the nearby Km 151 road out Punta Chivato
We then drove on to Mulegé, picking up some groceries in "Super Mini Davis"
which had the most diverse selection of "gringo foods" that we had seen yet.
Wow. We explored the windy streets to the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé