After leaving Mulegé, we headed towards the famous Bahía
Concepción, a gorgeous bay that has been designated as a national marine
preserve. After reading so much about it, we were ready to be impressed. To get an
overall sense of the area, we took a side road up a hill to a microwave tower, Microondas Tiburones.
As we headed into the heart of Bahía Concepción, we couldn't believe the number of RVs squeezed into every cove. We had purchased our Sportsmobile camper van as a way to get away from people. These were beautiful beaches, but why camp somewhere packed with other RVs? It was not for us. As Highway 1 runs right next to the western side of the bay, we could take a look at every beach on the shore. Some were more crowded than others, but they all were right next to the busy highway.
We were getting a bit grumpy as our dream of camping alone on the gorgeous
beaches of Bahía Concepción was not turning out as we had hoped. We had wanted
to rent kayaks the next day, so we didn't want to get too far away, but we
didn't want to camp in an RV parking lot. Finally, we decided to check out a
little road heading east along the south edge of Bahía Concepción. It was a
bit windy but we were alone except for one other truck camper off in the
We explored this beach until the sunset, pulling up a few dozen clams for dinner. We also found a huge dead squid, and weird slabs of solidified sand. The peninsula on the eastern side of the bay (Sierra los Gavilanes) was calling our name but that exploration would have to wait for another trip.
We drove back north early the next morning to a place called Eco-Mundo to rent
We dinked along, paddling from island to island, peering into the gorgeous clear waters at the fish below. There were lots exotic birds everywhere we looked: an osprey pair with a nest in the branches of a Cordon cactus, blue footed boobies, numerous pelicans, red billed oystercatchers, swooping frigatebirds, peering herons, and numerous cormorants. It was almost like being in the Galapagos!
We ate lunch and tried a little snorkeled from the sandy side of an island with numerous pelicans. The water was cold and after seeing too many dead fish (skate bodies discarded by fishermen), we quit early. As we were eating lunch, one juvenile pelican came sauntering over to visit us. He kept his distance but I think he thought we might give him some fish. When a nearby skin diver swam to his boat with his catch, he was swarmed by all the surrounding birds who had been waiting for him.
We left Bahía Concepción mid-afternoon and started our drive south. We wanted to get a few miles under our belts so we could make it to La Paz by the weekend. This photo shows an example of a typical Mexican accident site we saw along the road. There's a memorial shrine for the deceased built into the cliff, and the destroyed vehicle (a big truck) is still lying there, rusting away at the bottom of the ravine.